PS3 B&O Steamer Paralyzed Again in DCS

I shut everything down, unplugged the TIU, started it up the same way, and it worked.

If the PS 3 Steamer using DCS loses power and shuts down by itself, can that cause difficulties in starting it up again? I think that is the issue.

Arnold,

At low speeds, engines sometimes have connectivity issues when going over switches. I have experienced this several times with PS2/PS3 and TMCC engines.

There can be a myriad of causes for this but here are what I consider the main three:
- Track contact pins loose
- Dirty Track
- Pickup roller not making contact (this is my assumption based upon our prior conversations and your description of the ailment: it can be fixed by adding extra pickup rollers or increasing minimum engine speed)
Solution: To prevent this from happening in the future, I recommend running your MTH engines at a minimum of 14 SMPH when going over switches. Many people have their own preferences but 14 SMPH has worked for me

When the engine looses power over a switch:
- Shut down DCS and track power
- Move the loco forward slightly so it's off the switch(es)
- Turn on power to the layout and turn on DCS
- Engine should run fine now. If not, turn the engine off, then on again with the DCS remote.
- It should be running like new! If not, then there might be another cause for the problem


Here is light reading from prior discussions about similar issues:
Engine dies on switch. | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum (ogaugerr.com)
Engine stops over switches | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum (ogaugerr.com)
Problems with MTH consolidation PS3 | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum (ogaugerr.com)


I hope this helps! If you still have a problem, shoot me a text and I will see what I can do to help you out

Bryce

Now, if I shut everything down, including unplugging the Z500 brick that powers the TIU, I can get the engine to start up fine, but when it goes over a 022 switch (no derailment) it sometimes loses power and stops, and I can't start it up again without shutting everything down.

I think the problem is the drawbar, and maybe Quickset speed.

I thought I solved the drawbar problem, but I think it sometimes loosens its connection a little bit, even with the small piece of plastic attached that is supposed to prevent that from happening. Don't know the solution to that problem.

I would love to know how to disable Quickset Speed.

@Oscale_Trains_Lover_ posted:

Arnold,

At low speeds, engines sometimes have connectivity issues when going over switches. I have experienced this several times with PS2/PS3 and TMCC engines.

There can be a myriad of causes for this but here are what I consider the main three:
- Track contact pins loose
- Dirty Track
- Pickup roller not making contact (this is my assumption based upon our prior conversations and your description of the ailment: it can be fixed by adding extra pickup rollers or increasing minimum engine speed)
Solution: To prevent this from happening in the future, I recommend running your MTH engines at a minimum of 14 SMPH when going over switches. Many people have their own preferences but 14 SMPH has worked for me

When the engine looses power over a switch:
- Shut down DCS and track power
- Move the loco forward slightly so it's off the switch(es)
- Turn on power to the layout and turn on DCS
- Engine should run fine now. If not, turn the engine off, then on again with the DCS remote.
- It should be running like new! If not, then there might be another cause for the problem


Here is light reading from prior discussions about similar issues:
Engine dies on switch. | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum (ogaugerr.com)
Engine stops over switches | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum (ogaugerr.com)
Problems with MTH consolidation PS3 | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum (ogaugerr.com)


I hope this helps! If you still have a problem, shoot me a text and I will see what I can do to help you out

Bryce

Bryce, thank you so much.  I'm exhausted now, so I will try again tomorrow following your advice.

Got it running again. But it will run, then stop, light goes out, but it continues to chug. It will stop anywhere on track unpredictably, sometimes on regular track (not just on a switch).

I think the issue is narrowed down to the drawbar connection and the Quickset Start.

Just took it off track. See a tiny bit of space between the drawbar connection and the docket for it in tender. Almost certain that is cause of the stopping.

Will read about Quickset Speed. I think if you press ENG and then Thumbwheel twice, it goes into Quickset Speed. This Quickset Speed might be a good thing. Will try to learn how to use it or disable it by reading DCS Operator's Manual.

If it wasn't under warranty, I might try to fasten the little black plastic piece with a little rubber cement to keep it in place. With rubber cement, I could peel it off.

Also, might use another fastener that I can easily put on and take off like plastic tubing that is exactly the correct size.

Also, since it is within the warranty and I bought it from a reputable Forum Sponsor dealer, maybe I can exchange it for a Proto 3 diesel or other engine that has no drawbar issues.

@Arnold D. Cribari posted:

If it wasn't under warranty, I might try to fasten the little black plastic piece with a little rubber cement to keep it in place. With rubber cement, I could peel it off.

Also, might use another fastener that I can easily put on and take off like plastic tubing that is exactly the correct size.

Also, since it is within the warranty and I bought it from a reputable Forum Sponsor dealer, maybe I can exchange it for a Proto 3 diesel or other engine that has no drawbar issues.

Your situation sounds similar to mine.  It is on its way to MM for warranty. 

Do you have any other tenders with the same drawbar pin connector?  If yes, change the tender and see if the problem goes away.  That is what I did.  I ran my Hiawatha tender on my J Class and it worked fine.  I did replace the tender bar because the dealer suggested it.  I will post as to the outcome of mine.

I don't think yours is a tubing thing.  The fact it happens on strange sppots is the giveaway.  My symtoms are too much like yours.

Another issue to look out for is -

Its might not be DCS, it might be the layout. Most people using DCS don't operate O22 switches in the first place. When DCS looses power during operation, it can easily get confused.

Another thing to check is - Some later MTH engines with the 2nd gen (smaller roller) design assembly can have this problem over some switches.  If the switch center is to high, you will have to lower it using a Dremel tool. The pockets on the engine are are tight making the roller stick up into the pocket causing the engine to loose power over certain switches.  You have to modify the plastic pocket area on the engine as well. I started to notice this happen back when MTH came out with the GP-35's.

Not sure what era your MTH engine is, but after showing MTH the problem, it seems they have correct the issue somewhere along the way for production.

Hope this helps.

Arnold,

If you think the wireless drawbar is loose, look at this thread. There were some solutions to this that were previously discussed.
Alternate Fix for PS3 Wireless Drawbar | O Gauge Railroading On Line Forum (ogaugerr.com)

Bryce

"If the PS 3 Steamer using DCS loses power and shuts down by itself, can that cause difficulties in starting it up again? I think that is the issue."

My answer is a very definite yes, and it's one reason why I prefer PS2.  Often if a breaker opens and cuts power.  I will find that I can do nothing with the PS3 loco unless I let it sit for a goodly period on a dead track.  Happens with all my PS3 units.  Good news is that I only have 3 or 4.

The final solution for me is that I made a deal with the Forum Sponsor I bought it from. I explained the drawbar problem, and we agreed that I could return the MTH steamer in exchange for a Proto 3 diesel of approximately equal value. I got a Return Tag so I did not have to pay any shipping cost. It's now on it's way back to the Seller.

When the exchange is completed, hopefully in a few days, I will mention the name of the Forum Sponsor and say that I was treated fairly. Arnold

This is a further follow up, which I share because it might help others with similar problems, now and in the future.

Made further progress effectuating the exchange. Returned the PS 3 steamer with drawbar problem to dealer, who received it, and  who is shipping a Proto 3 diesel to me, which I should receive next week.

Moral of story: buy from a reputable fair minded dealer (my experience with Forum Sponsors so far is that they are all reputable and fair-minded) and take action while engine is still under warranty.

This morning, I ran an MTH PS3 diesel on DCS, strictly following the crystal clear instructions in the DCS Operator's Manual. It ran great. Here is the PS3 CSX diesel hauling gondolas in the morning light:

There is absolutely nothing wrong with my brand new DCS Remote Control Set with TIU and handheld remote unit, and the way I set it up. Much of the confusion in my prior posts was due to the fact that I initially did not know if the problem was due to the DCS, the steamer, or both.

Incidentally, I set up the DCS with the variable voltage channels functioning like fixed voltage channels, which is one of the options recommended in Barry's book. This works for me because I am fine running Postwar and PS 1 engines from the transformer throttles, because I can still run PS 2 and 3 engines and LC+ engines from their respective handhelds to do switching maneuvers.

My problem was caused by the PS3 steamer and its drawbar.

One final thought: i plan to minimize problems with tethers and drawbars between steamers and their tenders by rarely, if ever, disconnecting them. Whenever I put one on, or take one off, the track, I plan to do so as one unit, if possible, holding the engine in one hand and the tender in the other.  Arnold