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Mike I hope you get it figured out! 

Elliot did you figure out what happened to the engine that quit? 

I finally got to run trains!!! Was a battle but I did it! Track worked out great without even using any odd sized pieces!  Added a 30 inch and 10 inch straight on the 11 foot wall on each main. IMG_20190202_220148_hdr

and then added 2 x 30s and a 10 on the wall with the door on each main. Came out perfectly! IMG_20190202_220217_hdr

Jim

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Last edited by carsntrains
mike g. posted:

WOO HOO Jim! you da man!

Elliot, this may sound a little silly, but I see the lead engine has a front coupler on it. Couldn't you just back an engine or 2 into the front one  to help pull it out?

A rail rescue isn't as easy as it sounds. I'd probably have to send in two engines lashed up, couple on, then re-lash all four, and power out. I don't think I could handle two throttles at once, which is why the re-lash is necessary. I really don't want to drag the tires on the dead unit if I can help it. It may restart with just a push. I might be able to nudge it with a stick, and power it about 15' to where it's easier to reach.

CE963020-2A16-4FC2-BD3C-E83A3F7C90C39026EA7B-0973-468C-BC7F-69227216C615John d Sewell posted:
lee drennen posted:
John d Sewell posted:

Lee, please let me know what you used for your road surfaces.

thanks 

John d.

John 

I used some rubber material that a friend of mine gave me years ago where I use to load. It’s  used for anti slip of freight on trailer floors they used to throw this stuff away what they didn’t use by the pounds so I asked if I could have some of it. I cut my desired lengthens and I glue it down then I take ashes from my fire place and lightly sprinkle them on the top and with one of my daughters make brushes I blend it in different spots. Hope this helps 

Lee the idea to spread the ash on the road bed is a fantastic idea.  Plenty ashes on hand after the last week in January.

I enjoy watching your post photos. New truck s are great. I believe your daughter plays HS basketball. I hope their season is going well this year.

Take care, John d.

Yes John burnt lots of wood last week. Thanks for the complement my daughter had a great season until a couple weeks ago she hurt a muscle in her back and she’s on crutches. She might get to play before the end of the season but her team is doing well. Here’s her senior volleyball pic. And she was nominated for Homecoming Queen last week but lost but still a honor to have her nominated I’m so proud of my girls I am Blessed. I know this isn’t trains but I’m just a proud dad.

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I began the next box of Preiser 65602 Unpainted Seated People in Pink today.  I already finished a 24-pack in Blue and another in Green. When I finish this pack, I have nine more boxes to complete. The next will be Yellow and then Lavender, and then back to Blue.

I bought a small Microwave/Utility Cart to serve as my storage space for painting people. It rolls nicely from the corner of the room to the table where I paint.  Tomorrow I sort out 100 plus bottles of Testor's and Tamiya Paints, tossing the dried-out jars.  It will be nice to have a clean kitchen again.

Sincerely, John Rowlen

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Big_Boy_4005 posted:

I saw the rollers sparking as it was going around. I should have stopped and grabbed it when it was easy. Story of my life.

BTW, the breaker I'm replacing isn't even that old. Patrick and I put that in just 4 or 5 years ago, when we brought the big power over.

Elliot- sounds like the inrush current of the 6 bricks powering up is what killed the breaker. The time delay would solve that problem. The 15 A toggle switch wasn't helping either. I'm sure you've cycled the power on and off over the years to equal 40-50 years of cycles that a typical circuit breaker is designed to handle. In my years in the contracting business I did ton's of service calls for faulty breakers. Not unusual at all. Some manufacturers were better than others too. SquareD was always # 1 in my book. Westinghouse and Bryant were pretty good too. Make sure you are using a full size single pole or double pole breaker, not a twin. Obviously size does matter in this case

Good luck pulling that loco out, don't re-injure your self twisting and turning. Maybe get one of those long poles with the grab fingers on the end.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71o3rrsHe8L._SL1500_.jpg

Bob

 

Bob, I'm glad you said Square D, because that's what I'm using, full size 20A. The thing is, when we first installed this setup, there were no problems. This just developed over time, and has gotten progressively worse. I'm pretty sure I won't have to resort to the delay circuit. I have a grabber in  the train room, but it isn't going to be much use on this one because of the angle at which this has to be accessed.

Lee, the Piggy back just looks wonderful! Where do you get your decals from?

Looking good John, The wife would never let me paint in the kitchen! I have been told several times that's what the garage or the train room is for! LOL

So I woke up this morning and checked the hydrocal mold and it never did set up. I am going to just trash the little left in the box.

There wont be any train room work today or maybe even for a few days as I woke up with what seams to be the flu! That's what I get for being a nice guy! Oh well it will pass!

I will be checking in on you all and watching the super bowl if I can stay awake! LOL

mike g. posted:

Lee, the Piggy back just looks wonderful! Where do you get your decals from?

Looking good John, The wife would never let me paint in the kitchen! I have been told several times that's what the garage or the train room is for! LOL

So I woke up this morning and checked the hydrocal mold and it never did set up. I am going to just trash the little left in the box.

There wont be any train room work today or maybe even for a few days as I woke up with what seams to be the flu! That's what I get for being a nice guy! Oh well it will pass!

I will be checking in on you all and watching the super bowl if I can stay awake! LOL

Mike

The decals are tidbits of HO caboose and others I could find to make them up. Thanks for the complement 

Greetings building buds.

Before reviewing the forty thousand posts since I last visited, it's great to see things haven't slowed down around here.

The Yellowbelly project received ERR sounds ( SP GS w/horn ) provided amply by a second speaker in the boiler.  I removed all the previously added weight in the boiler because I thought none might improve top speed.   But that proved there is definitely need for some if hauling more than 5 PW aluminum cars is desired, which it is!   The L1 has become smooth as silk after lots of exercise in the past few weeks.  The ultra cheap conversion appears to be a viable product for remedying Pullmortis.  

More ERR hardware has replaced aging TMCC on a few other locos as well.  Then along comes a brass William's GS4 and all focus shifts to it.  I'm currently  building a module housing the smoke unit, front speaker and lighting boards together with the smokebox front.  The assembly slides out of the boiler for easy servicing and helps prevent the tight fitted front from falling off.

Sure hope we can all look forward to more of these warmer days.   Even us Canadians can only take so much.  Mush!

Bruce

 

Last edited by brwebster

Elliot and KON112H, nice videos.

Kmars00. the paneling is working out very good for the back drop. Is it easier to work with then Masonite. What size does it come in and can it be cut easily????

Mike G, the stone walls are turning out great. 

This morning I went to the Medina Train show. It was good to get to a show but there was nothing of interest there for me. So a plus was I saved money for something else. After lunch I got down to the basement. I marked the abutements on the plywood. Then I had a piece of Masonite that was enough to do the area behind the table. Measured and got the meassurements right LOL. Instead of using drywall screws to secure it I used the Gar Graves #4 screws. Got  coat of white on and when that dries I'll add the two blues. Pics.........Paul

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It’s very easy to work with. It comes in 2’x4’ and 4’x4’ sheets that I saw. I mostly buy the 2x4 sheets as I only have a car. The 4x4 were a real pain to get in and I almost didn’t get them out. I buy it 1/8” thick. I use a Jigsaw or circular saw when cutting it. You can’t really do it with a utility knife as it’s a bit hard for that. A hacksaw works but doesn’t leave a great edge. 

So, what did I do today?

  1. Continued to wire Dept 56 structures. Laborious at best, but getting there. I have 20 of them to do. 
  2. Continued to remove underlayment in scenic areas. Turns out, it doesn't hold ballast very well :-(
  3. Installed a couple more Miller Engineering signs. I'm an addict. 
  4. Fixed a recurring short that was breaking the Lionel ZW. Turns out it was a defective Marx Bubbling Water tower. Removed it and all is well. 
  5. Took apart an MTH Pennsy 0-222-2 to get at a bad headlamp LED. Wrote an email to Evans Design to get a replacement.
  6. Ran trains!!

The Culprit!

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Well guys, mission accomplished. The Builder was rescued. No sticks, no extra engines, just one nephew. He gave it a push and the second engine sputtered a bit, but stayed on enough to keep the train moving. It made it all the way through the yard and started back up the helix. I didn't notice that I had left half the train behind at the bottom, until it came out light at Red Wing. He pushed the cars up the helix and I put the train back together.

I took the bad engine, flipped it over and looked at the rollers. As I had suspected, they were filthy. A couple drops of hair clipper oil, and a quick spin with a wire brush in the Dremel, and they were clean and shiny. Back on the rails and in the train, throttle up and no more sparks. Jim asked last night, how did I know? Not my first rodeo. 

How did they get so dirty? I'm running trains in a construction zone. Dirt gets on the track, in spite of running the track cleaning car. The sparks start slowly, but then they snowball, and before you know it, your engine's rollers aren't getting any power through to the motors. 

If it is your first rodeo, and you see sparks coming from your rollers, Take a minute to check them and clean them.

  Breaker (train-not home) operation should be tested. It is part of maintenance.  If it doesn't work as specified THEN replace it.  

  They used to be adjustable in the pre & pw transformers.  They do not normally "wear out" so much as they MIGHT change over time, including tripping early and slow both. 

There is no need to rush out for new breakers if the old is working fine, there isn't an expiration date.

  My prewar Z trips better than anything but my bricks because it's well adjusted.

  At home I turn the AC box off and on once or twice a year and feel for looseness, smoothness, locking, etc.

   I also pop the box cover & check screws for corrosion and tightness when I check my furnace for rust under heat exchanger (actual holes there =carbon monoxide)   It's rare, but sometimes screws losen. Electricity is full of tiny vibrations, boxes hum to varying degrees.

Big_Boy_4005 posted:

Well guys, mission accomplished. The Builder was rescued. No sticks, no extra engines, just one nephew. He gave it a push and the second engine sputtered a bit, but stayed on enough to keep the train moving. It made it all the way through the yard and started back up the helix. I didn't notice that I had left half the train behind at the bottom, until it came out light at Red Wing. He pushed the cars up the helix and I put the train back together.

I took the bad engine, flipped it over and looked at the rollers. As I had suspected, they were filthy. A couple drops of hair clipper oil, and a quick spin with a wire brush in the Dremel, and they were clean and shiny. Back on the rails and in the train, throttle up and no more sparks. Jim asked last night, how did I know? Not my first rodeo. 

How did they get so dirty? I'm running trains in a construction zone. Dirt gets on the track, in spite of running the track cleaning car. The sparks start slowly, but then they snowball, and before you know it, your engine's rollers aren't getting any power through to the motors. 

If it is your first rodeo, and you see sparks coming from your rollers, Take a minute to check them and clean them.

Glad you got the Empire Builder out and running again!  Yep them there construction zones are not great for electric trains!  I need to give all of mine a good cleaning and clean the track.  

Jim 

After Blizzard II of '19, got back to scratching a logging cookhouse to go with/match my kit built bunkhouse, both on skids. There were other interruptions.  Still haven't found diner/restaurant interior for it ... don't think dining car interior will work. Don't usually put in interiors, but bunkhouse came with, so today will get in wall dividing kitchen/dining area.  Ate a couple of times in that one that serves(d?) breakfast in Eureka, Calif., but was years ago and didn't see kitchen.  Is there another in the country? Were doing construction at the Pa. Logging Museum when l was there during a rainy York....so dunno if it has a cookhouse.

 

I didn't do anything but clean track...

Between my job driving me nuts, discovering what I thought was a minor tap to my front bummer in a Portland parking not in December was more than I thought, and keeping an eye on our 5 month old puppy, I just haven't done much with the trains in a while.

I can't get over how many responses there have been here in the last 2 days, I'm not sure I'm going to be able to catch up with them all!

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Well the track work is done on the top level. In total there are two reversing loops, single track main line and two pass through sidings. Next up is to do all of the wiring for it. It is a little tough getting the power feeders and turnout wiring down under the table because there is a subway level under it to contend with but I am woring through those issues. 

Bodywork and primered 5 pax cars; they'll all need more bodywork.

Continued disassembly of SF Super Chief donor cars for Texas Special project.  

Successfully removed some prior owner's adhesive residue from the shiny SF diner without damaging the finish--started with Goo Gone which didn't work; tried Iso Alcohol with no joy; and, success with Acetone.  Tested each of the above inside the diner where any adverse reaction would  not be seen.

I'm pretty certain a prior owner used some adhesive to reattach the car no. plaque on the diner because if was upside down--"109" instead of "601".   Also, under previous ownership the 601 plaque on the car's other side was lost and there was no evidence of any residue.

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