Need Recommendations for Bus Bars

Try Radio Snack. I get all mine there. Not just for Model Railroading.

I would but don't think I have one nearby but will look. There are three "electronics" stores in my area and none -- believe it or not -- carry bus bars.

IMO the MTH ones are tough to beat, not necessarily any cheaper but they do come with greater numbers of terminals. if you shop around you can run across some at decent prices. Having said that, few extra bucks on wiring is money well spent.

Mth terminal blocks

If you are re-wiring for DCS, I think 'star wiring' is recommended as opposed to bus. If you have Barry's book, it's in there. I plan to follow the book's wiring methods on my layout.

I got a couple of the MTH terminal blocks 50-1014. A bit more pricey then yours, but I am only using a couple. I have seen this same terminal block made by someone else for less, but can't remember who it was? MTH also has a 24 terminal version.

Others here have used ground bars available at the big box stores, they are much cheaper. Link is to one at Home Depot. I think they have others that have mounting lugs or some way to mount the thing anyway?

There are also 'European style' terminal strips, those are nice, and probably the least expensive. They used to have them at Radio Shack, but have been hard to fine around here lately. Link is to their online stuff, they still have them listed there. They have many more to choose from online.

The MTH, ground bars and European style all have screw terminals, no crimping forks required.

Scott

You can get copper ground bars at Lowe's or Depot and fabricate your own. Or get eight position T-strips and strip jumpers at Radio Shack and jumper them. You can cut the jumpers and customize as needed.

Also Graybar and other electrical suppliers have Ideal brand t-strips which you can plate jumper as shown on the layout bus hub below. This particular one serves three power districts and the Common Return [white conductors].

[Layout now dismantled].

From electrical supply stores   Neutral bus bars.   I use them to consolidate track and accessory commons.

 Edit Add photos.  On the power side of wiring,  I added small fuse blocks and then looped accessory power to one end of each fuse block.  A fused distribution panel of sorts.  

Cooper Bussman fuse block from Grainger Supply.  These fuse blocks accept standard Automotive glass fuses, (AGC), that can be purchased at a local automotive supply store. I usually purchase either 7.5 amp for track power, 3 amp or less for accessory power.

Made for a reliable, safe, and somewhat organized power distribution system. IMO.

Accessory power distribution. (3 amp or less fuses)

Track power distributions.  (7.5 amps fuses)

Thanks to all for the great feedback.

I do have two of the MTH boards and also use strip jumpers on my barrier strips but not nearly as good as the ones Dewey is showing. I like the look of the Home Depot product but on Dale H's website he showed something similar but noted "not recommended for DCS".

Seems that the bottom line is as stated by RickO -- don't cheap out on your wiring!

Dewey introduced these to me and they are very easy to use. It's difficult to see the jumpers in the photo above but they are behind the top row of screws. Here's another picture:

This jumper connects two screws together but you can buy 3s and 4s, too. Using these terminal strips (t strips) is a great was to transition down from 12-14 gauge wire to 16-18-20 gauge wire without suitcase connectors that are never the right size for both wires.

They are available at home centers and hardware stores.

 We have used these from McMaster Carr. Wires from TIU output to terminal block and then star wiring per MTH to track blocks. They also sell the jumpers to connect all the terminals.

Nice helper, buy her something too!

You can select the terminal size you need from their catalog, believe we have the #8 or #10 screw size one.

Originally Posted by Scott T Johnson:

Nice helper, buy her something too!

 

Thanks Lima. Clearly you have identified me as the ugly one on the right and not the gorgeous one on the left . And I am buying her something -- college tuition to the University of Oregon!

There are lots of great solutions available and some very creative ideas.

Here is an approach that works for me if you follow the link and look under the how to projects

http://www.korbermodels.com/Services___Links.html

I make some blocks that work well using the inexpensive buss bar from home depot or lowes, and some plexiglass or lexan.  Cost is typically $5-$8 and a nice result.

I buy most of my wiring materials from All Electronics. See the terminal strips in the link below. Extremely fast service and great prices.

http://www.allelectronics.com/...rminal-Strips/1.html

I bought a bunch of these from Allied Electronics http://www.alliedelec.com  I bought the Jumper to connect all the spaces together.  I can hook one power wire up from the transformer and split it off to 19 connections.  I use one for the red wire and one for the black.  $6.55 + $2.29  These are modular and you can make it as long as you like.  Jumpers are available from 2 to 10 holes and 100 holes.

I have a cheap solution that I have used and that is a piano hinge.  Separate the hinge and you have two bars with the drilled in holes, just mount your wires to each side and there you go.  I have this it works great.

The many solutions presented here are very much appreciated. I especially like the links from Rich at Korber and Jim Z. Of interest is that terminal blocks are readily available and can be jumpered in multiple ways for dual performance. Pure bus (is it "bus" or "buss"?) bars on the other hand are harder to find at electronics stores which is odd. Possibly these are rarely used for basic electronics and are unique to our hobby that requires balanced power over large areas.

I am going to try some of the brass marine bus bars for the main loop but use terminal blocks with Dewey's jumpers as I divide the power down further. After the rennovation I look forward to having something professional looking like Dewey or Mike are showing  and not the rats nest I have now .

Thanks

Do you know the p/n of these?

We had looked at something like this but could not find one that would accept from 10ga to 26 ga wires. Due to that requirement we went with the terminal blocks and crimp terminals. Thanks