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Nothing ventured, nothing gained. Its worth doing a thorough examination of damage, check out parts availability. I joined the I left the ___on the tracks club, even renewed my subscription. Both of my incidents were viewed as a slow motion catastrophe. I was stunned like a deer in the headlights...a lot of cussing and self loathing for an extended period. Spence, theres nothing to lose in taking a good look at it once the scar's healed.

So sorry for your loss Spence. What a terrible thing to have happen. It looks extremely difficult to repair at best. If only the tool would have shorted the track first, before the de-railment. As others have said, I would have used much more colorful language than Woops had that happened to me.

 

I almost did the same thing with a diesel a few weeks ago, left some roadway I was fiddling with on a curve and just barely got the engine stopped as it was de-railing when it hit the roadway. Luckily it was going very slowly when it happened and stopped just short of the layout's edge. It did come close enough to make the old ticker speed up considerably. I have been thinking about doing something like banjoflyer has done around the preimeter. I am now thinking more strongly about it.

 

My LHS had some RK Imperial Big Boy's a while back. They may have sold them all, but could possibly have something left? I am going there tomorrow if you would like me to look, I will be happy to check if you are interested. What was the MTH part number for your engine?

I've run into stuff on the tracks before, but I've been fortunate that none of the wrecks ended up on the floor!  I've dropped a few freight cars, some survived, some didn't, but only minor losses.  I've never had an event like this, and it sure is a sad day for Spencer RR Lines!  Makes me want to send a $150 locomotive around first to clear the tracks!

 

MAN!!GREAT SCOTT!!!I am sorry to see this has happened to you.MTH might replace it if its under warrenty.Guys here can disagree with me here.But this is the very reason my layout is pretty closse to the floor.With the money these locomotives cost.I am not taking that chance.You might want to see if there is a mth repairmen closse to you.And take it to him just to get his openion.But from the looks from it.Maybe you should just get another one.It will take time to get over this.I know if it was me I to would be upset.I hope things work out for the better for you.

Well, guess real world history repeats itself in the model world - tools left on the tracks are a recipe for a train wreck, but...

 

**** GOD ALMIGHTY that was painful to look at, Spencer.

 

I guess this is a reason I stayed with floor layouts running all my expensive stuff - a nice soft carpet seems to protect any big wrecks.

 

Regardless, I really hope there will be a silver lining to this big storm cloud over one of your favorite engines....somewhere.

 

 

I must admit, I was already going to add to the sides of my layout where that one curve got really close to the edge, but now I'm not going to run trains there without being ready to catch any locomotive going over the side, until I get that portion added right at that spot. It's not that I wasn't already gonna do it, but Spencer's experience has lit a fire under me to make it happen faster than ever. My new plan is to make it happen probably on Sunday if I can.

Just so sad I learned this lesson over at such a cost to anyone.

 
 
Originally Posted by Mikado 4501:

**** GOD ALMIGHTY that was painful to look at, Spencer.

 


Darn right.

 

Spencer, you gotta keep us all posted as to what you're gonna do here.

Hi Spence ,

it may be possible to fix the roof with a little heat froma propane torch , heated very slowly and then some pliers on the roof slowly straightening it a little at the time as you keep the bent area heated , do not over do the heat .

 

Like was mentioned check for loose boards ,once the boards are checked  it is most likely the driver axle or driver is bent , out of quarter causing it to bind , then take drive rods loose or the cab off and turn over by hand to see if axles are bent or any of the drivers are cracked , if all that is good , it could be repaired .

Cosmetic for sure , a bent axle is more of a job , but Joe at Baldwin Forge could fix the drive line I am sure .

 

Bernie

Well I've been working on this all afternoon & guess what. I got the thing running (short video attached). The engine is just sitting on the rear trucks. Believe it or not I found the spring that goes on them along with the small washer but what I need is the small clip that holds the washer on. There's a groove in the pin that this clip fits into & locks everything in place. Can anyone help me?

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Woops Repair
Originally Posted by Spence:

Well I've been working on this all afternoon & guess what. I got the thing running (short video attached). The engine is just sitting on the rear trucks. Believe it or not I found the spring that goes on them along with the small washer but what I need is the small clip that holds the washer on. There's a groove in the pin that this clip fits into & locks everything in place. Can anyone help me?

Spence,

 

  Try a hardware store or auto parts store, you need a e-clip or a horseshoe clip.

 

Art

Originally Posted by banjoflyer:LOL
Originally Posted by Spence:

Well I've been working on this all afternoon & guess what. I got the thing running (short video attached).

U N B E L I E V A B L E  ! ! ! 

Spence...your guardian angel is trying hard to make it up to you for that 55" fall.

The fact that the engine runs at all is hard to fathom.

Run out right now and buy a Lottery Ticket before your luck runs out!

Great News!

Mark

 

Originally Posted by banjoflyer:
You have my sympathy Spence.
My layout has an O gauge track running around the perimeter just 3/4 inch from the edge of the table.
Early on I toyed with the idea of just "being careful" but then my wallet cried out "Oh no you don't"! With $500.00 engines inches from doom I made a plan.
I installed six inch high 1/8 inch thick plexiglass completely around the layout. All of the outside corners have a 12" radius and the plexiglass curved around them smoothly. Where I did encounter a 90 degree turn at an inside corner I was able to bend the plexiglass on the workbench with a heat gun to the needed 90 degrees. All pieces were eight feet long and butted together. The top edge was covered with an edge finishing trim piece commonly used for shower stall panel edges and just stays on with friction.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
Mark

 

Sounds like a good way to protect your collection when running on your layout.  It also helps when visitors come and try to touch a moving train.  Where to buy the plexiglaas sheet? What is the best way to cut the material?

 

Can you provide some pictures of your installation.

 

 

Last edited by pro hobby

Spence,

 

First I would like to say how sorry I feel for you right now.  Sometimes s#@t happens.  It really painful because an little oversite of your own doing caused so much pain.

 

How much is the deductable on your home owners insurance?  Do you have a rider for your trains?

 

Good luck with which ever hoice you make.

 

Jim

Heart breaking to say the least.  Since I am finally getting into the building of my layout I am seeing where there are some needs to be addressed to stop something like this happening in the furture.  Perhaps I crazy, but I have purchased most of the engines, Big Boy, Challenger in brass, 844, 9000 class UP, a Texas, 3751, 2-6-6-6, a Cab forward and several lesser steamers, and special passengers cars and 50 or 60 cars before laying one set of rails.  I love just looking at them, they remind me of my childhood around the San Bernardino and Colton yards.  I stopped buying guns once I was hit by the bug, can't do both, especially at the young age of 75.

Hey Spence, it's about that time of year, so why not ask ole Santa for a 4x8 sheet of 3/16 Lexan to cut some strips out of. That's what I'm proposing we do to the Club "O" Gauge, as it will also take care of those little fingers that pass by when it's running, during one of our "Open to the Public" runs. That stuff is bullitt proof, not that we'll shoot at the trains, just a form of speech!

Glad to see that you got it running again. Now u can do the body work-n-paint, or do a heavy weathering job, or both.

Once again I'm glad that you shared your delima, as I bet it's made everyone who has read this post, think twice, and do a double take towards their layout, or both.

................................................................................Brandy

The cab roof?     Looks like the biggest problem is the bent cab roof? I've never seen one of these locos in person so don't know if it's possible to straighten out that bend? Is the shell diecast? Anyone have any experience with it?  The coal load could be repaired by gluing in some crushed real coal with dilute white glue so I wouldn't worry about that. If the cab roof can be fixed , new coal , and a bit of weathering and the loco should look better than new.It's a great sign that the loco runs well after the fall so nothing inside was shaken loose. ...DaveB

It is unfortunate but sometimes bad things happen to all of us at times. Depending on your level of manual dexterity just about anything can be fixed. The cab can be restored by first removing it, tapping the bend carefully into place cleaning/roughing up the area with 180 grit wet dry paper and using automobile body putty to remold the damaged area. It then must be cut to the original lines of the cab with a special file called a "cheese grater" , sanded smooth, primed painted, and re-lettered if necessary. Probably easier just to "bite the bullet" and buy a new cab. Call MTH service, explain the problem and they may offer a solution.

If all else fails there are engine cab restorers like Len Carparelli that can make that cab look new again.  Here's Lens website  www.lencarparelli.com

Last edited by Dennis LaGrua

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