How to operate old trains on a MTH system

Use the 2 variable channels of the TIU to operate older conventional trains.  These channels will vary the voltage to the track to operate conventional engines.  The "blue box" won't do much good unless the Lionel trains are command.

I would suggest getting this book.  "The DCS Companion" either in hard copy or download.

On any electrically continuous section of track (a block) you can have one or the other but not both simultaneously. From the beginning of time the speed of model trains has been controlled by varying the voltage supplied to the motor(s) in the locomotive(s) because that is the nature of DC and Universal motors. Then came DCC/DCS/TMCC and the world shifted on it's axis. These new systems put the motor-voltage control in the locomotive and thus require constant track voltage.

Upshot: yes, to run your "conventional" (without DCC/DCS/TMCC) trains you must feed electrically isolated track [blocks] with variable voltage which your TIU can provide from it's two "variable" channels. So instead of a simple system of attaching two wires from the TIU to the track and away-you-go you are back to the Stone Age of blocks and selector switches. 

Or you could install ERR Commander electronics in each of your old ("conventional") engines and operate them using Lionel TMCC controls (which will work in tandem on the same track [electrical block] with MTH DCS).

Thanks for your reply. It appears that there are three "Companion" books in either digital or hard copy. One "Companion" book is wi fi and the another is O Gauge and the last is DCS. Which do you recommend? Does the wi fi book deal with a separate control box? (that's the last thing I need to confuse me!)

I would purchase all three then you'll be able to run anything you want!

You can run both types of engines on the same track using DCS, but it is tricky. If you only have conventional engines on the track, you can still just use the transformer handles, unless you are using a brick to power the layout.  As stated above, it is well described in The  DCS Companion.

Thank you all for your advice. I ordered the book from Amazon (next day delivery). I'm anxious to get my FM Trainmasters running. So if I connect the variable output to the track will it conflict with the fixed 18 volt, or should I disconnect the 18 volt output? When running with the variable output will the speed be controlled using the hand held control? Will I still be able to make the whistle sound by using the hand held control.  Yeah, I know, I'm anxious. Your answers/suggestions are way better than "that should work" response I received from the MTH technician. Thanks so much.

This information should be in the owners manual from MTH.  

How large is your track plan ?

If you feed the track through VARIABLE 1 or 2 instead of FIXED 1 or 2, you can run either.  When running DCS trains, set the voltage to 18 or so.

As John notes, you can run both conventional & DCS at the same time, if the oayout is large, but it's not relaxing.

The instructions for operating conventional trains using the DCS remote and TIU are on page 113 of the instructions that come packaged with the TIU: https://mthtrains.com/sites/de...ction/20as14017i.pdf

let's look at one loop of track.

from your constant 18 v power supply, hook it up to variable channel 1 in.  

If you have separate power supply available, such as an mth z-500 or similar 18 volt supply, plug into the aux input on the small end of the tiu.  If you don't have a separate power supply available, jumper the variable input 1 and fixed input 1 together  (red to red, black to black).  either way gives constant power to electronics in the tiu.  

Now wire up your loop of track to the variable output 1, and nothing else.

place engine/cars on the loop of track

Turn on the tiu remote and your power supply(ies).

On the tiu remote, upper right area, there is a button label TR or track ( working from memory here)

Select track 1.

roll the thumb wheel up/down to increase/decrease voltage and watch the trains go!  The whistle and bell button will work but some engines are internally wired backwards so your results may vary.  The min voltage is 5 volts.  This will cause so trains to jump and others to barely budge.  Older remotes were meant to work with earlier power supplies that supplied 21 volts instead of 18.  So don't be surprised if the voltage reading in the remote and what you can read with a meter don't quite match.

I run older trains with my remote all the time.  

You can also run proto 2 and proto 3 engines with the same setup.  Just before you select and engine, you first have to set the track voltage.

If you turn things off and you forgot to scroll the voltage down, when you first turn things back on nothing happens.  But as soon as you manipulate the voltage the track will go live.  EX.  track voltage set to 16.5 volts.  You cut the power to everything.  Turns stuff back on, and bring up the track voltage screen.  It will show 16.5 volts but there is actually no output yet.  scroll the thumbwheel a click and the power comes on.  This is important to remember if operating this way and you had a wreck.

This is a fun way to run conventional trains with a walk around remote.  Let us know how you make out with those FM's.