Skip to main content

@harmonyards posted:

And a short video of reverse ….slow and smooth …..like I said, really need to also lay credit to Norm, as I utilized his thoughts in implementing a better fix ….So these L1’s can be made rock solid,…..

Pat

Wow what a difference! Thanks for the great work Pat. Between this and the H10, I'm glad we could get these steamers back in proper order.

@cswalter posted:

I hope no issues with the new Lionel PRR M1 next year.

Maybe Lionel will take down some notes from this thread.

We discussed the M1 already in this thread,…..as said a few times now, ….the M1 shares the same main frame as the Mohawk, …….the Mohawk in Legacy form is a pretty stout locomotive, ….given they have a track record of reusing existing tooling, you guys wanting a M1 should be fine ……colors?…well, that’s the 64 dollar question…y’all are on your own, ….I don’t know who’s in charge of colors at Concord, but they need to go to the optometrist immediately…..

Pat

@harmonyards posted:

We discussed the M1 already in this thread,…..as said a few times now, ….the M1 shares the same main frame as the Mohawk, …….the Mohawk in Legacy form is a pretty stout locomotive, ….given they have a track record of reusing existing tooling, you guys wanting a M1 should be fine ……colors?…well, that’s the 64 dollar question…y’all are on your own, ….I don’t know who’s in charge of colors at Concord, but they need to go to the optometrist immediately…..

Pat

Good to know.

I will be buying one of those.

Thank You.

Glad to hear this worked. Shimming the motor is a bit easier than slotting the cover. The motor being pulled into the gearbox in reverse helps explain how the failure only happens in reverse, at least in my examples. This is what led to my suspicion of there being a thrust issue vs. an engagement problem.

When I first got the 1369 it couldn't even back a 20-something car train without locking up. When it came back from Lionel, it would only lock when being stalled in reverse (which could occur if one of the rollers dropped into one of my #5s). Upon inspection I found that there is a shim on the gearbox top that may or may not have been there since the beginning, similar to earlier pics on this thread. I also found what appeared to be a thin washer that was cut in half and inserted under the two rear screws. Removing the shim/washers would cause the gearbox to be too tight in mesh, adding more shims would cause the gears to not engage well (was also noisy).

I still think Lionel meant well with this design whether it's this direct drive style or the Canon type. When set up correctly it has very little friction and lash. Back-drivable seems to be a byproduct of this effort according to some but think of it this way - your locomotives experience 'back-drive' more commonly in other situations that doesn't involve you pushing your engine around by hand. Running a heavy train downhill and/or decelerating rapidly can put a back load into the drivetrain. More commonly back drive would come from other engines involved in lashups.

In any case, all's well that ends well.

Glad to hear this worked. Shimming the motor is a bit easier than slotting the cover. The motor being pulled into the gearbox in reverse helps explain how the failure only happens in reverse, at least in my examples. This is what led to my suspicion of there being a thrust issue vs. an engagement problem.

When I first got the 1369 it couldn't even back a 20-something car train without locking up. When it came back from Lionel, it would only lock when being stalled in reverse (which could occur if one of the rollers dropped into one of my #5s). Upon inspection I found that there is a shim on the gearbox top that may or may not have been there since the beginning, similar to earlier pics on this thread. I also found what appeared to be a thin washer that was cut in half and inserted under the two rear screws. Removing the shim/washers would cause the gearbox to be too tight in mesh, adding more shims would cause the gears to not engage well (was also noisy).

I still think Lionel meant well with this design whether it's this direct drive style or the Canon type. When set up correctly it has very little friction and lash. Back-drivable seems to be a byproduct of this effort according to some but think of it this way - your locomotives experience 'back-drive' more commonly in other situations that doesn't involve you pushing your engine around by hand. Running a heavy train downhill and/or decelerating rapidly can put a back load into the drivetrain. More commonly back drive would come from other engines involved in lashups.

In any case, all's well that ends well.

It’ll be interesting & important to add your fix & POV on this issue Norm, ….I’m never too old to learn, & being armed with knowledge is 99% of the battle …..In the case of Alex W.’s & two others, I can provide the shims by thickness I used to get it to smooth out…..I slotted Dave’s and then added a 2mm “locking screw “ ( and 4 others that way too ) which achieved the same result, but obviously was a lot more work. …..the stock motor mount screws are way too short to reuse when shimming the motor off the mount, but a couple of turns with a 3-48 tap on the motor solved that issue and I was able to use off the shelf hardware……I don’t stock enough of the 3mm hardware used to mount Mabuchi’s ….3-48 flat heads do a perfect job ….I can provide the dimensions on those as well, …..keep us posted if you don’t mind….

Pat

I printed some motor shims the other day for the 1369 and have gotten the gearbox to be less susceptible to locking up in a situation where the engine might stall in reverse. (This should be a rare thing now since the most likely stall situation was when I’d drop a roller into of my #5s which I mostly cured by printing more stout and secure pickup roller mounts.) It now plays very nicely with the 1343 in a doubleheader.

Excuse the crappy vid grabs. I printed the shims in a few different thicknesses - .3mm, .5mm, 1mm and 2mm. I tried a few and found that the .3mm seemed to work best. For what it’s worth I could simulate the lockup in reverse on the bench by manually turning the flywheel and holding the drivers tight by hand. IMG_5562IMG_5563

Bad quality grab here but hopefully one can see that the worm is a multiple (4?) start vs. the more common double start. It’s amazing how much they changed in these gearboxes. As you can see, the worm threads are pretty short and one would wonder if they had a bit more thread the worm could stay centered across the first input gear.
IMG_5564

Attachments

Images (3)
  • IMG_5562
  • IMG_5563
  • IMG_5564

I printed some motor shims the other day for the 1369 and have gotten the gearbox to be less susceptible to locking up in a situation where the engine might stall in reverse. (This should be a rare thing now since the most likely stall situation was when I’d drop a roller into of my #5s which I mostly cured by printing more stout and secure pickup roller mounts.) It now plays very nicely with the 1343 in a doubleheader.

Excuse the crappy vid grabs. I printed the shims in a few different thicknesses - .3mm, .5mm, 1mm and 2mm. I tried a few and found that the .3mm seemed to work best. For what it’s worth I could simulate the lockup in reverse on the bench by manually turning the flywheel and holding the drivers tight by hand. IMG_5562IMG_5563

Bad quality grab here but hopefully one can see that the worm is a multiple (4?) start vs. the more common double start. It’s amazing how much they changed in these gearboxes. As you can see, the worm threads are pretty short and one would wonder if they had a bit more thread the worm could stay centered across the first input gear.
IMG_5564

Any chance you would share those stl's so we could print our shim's?

Any chance you would share those stl's so we could print our shim's?

I second that, I have one coming in for the same complaint.  Nice to see that there's a solution.  FWIW, this one has already been back to Lionel and they couldn't find anything wrong.

It also has a bad smoke fan motor, but since I have to take it apart anyway, that will be easy to add to the list.

I second that, I have one coming in for the same complaint.  Nice to see that there's a solution.  FWIW, this one has already been back to Lionel and they couldn't find anything wrong.

So I guess that means that the bad gear lash is built to spec lol!

I take delivery of my I1 in a few weeks if it's not a complete disaster and then I'm done with the new stuff.

From colors to gearboxes. I don't understand how they consistently forget ,what " worked " before.

They get a golden opportunity with the MTH tooling and  then trip and fall all over the place.

Last edited by RickO
@RickO posted:

So I guess that means that the bad gear lash is built to spec lol!

I take delivery of my I1 in a few weeks if it's not a complete disaster and then I'm done with the new stuff.

From colors to gearboxes. I don't understand how they consistently forget ,what " worked " before.

They get a golden opportunity with the MTH tooling and trip and fall all over the place.

They didn’t forget.

There’s a thread elsewhere about the changes made to the former MTH RailKing 2-8-0 Consolidation they picked up for LC sets. It’s pretty unbelievable the hacking that was done.

It’s all about the bottom line.

Add Reply

Post
This forum is sponsored by Lionel, LLC

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Suite 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×