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suzukovich posted:
M. Mitchell Marmel posted:

Santy is getting a new ride!

GEDC2731

His postwar flatcar kept derailing, so I temporarily moved him to a shorter MPC flatcar.  But this K-Line job will suit much better, once I get it sprayed a nice Xmas red... 

Mitch

DOD to the rescue. You have to like that.

Hey, that's great you pointed that out, Suzukovich!!  Since I have over 40 years with utility companies, I guess if it had been a utility company car, I would have noticed that right off!

Mitch, I do you have any cars for the rest of the reindeer??

Don't usually contribute to this column because I don't want to bore you guys.  BUT, over the weekend I determined that i needed to replace a Gargraves switch in what is the most important, most used area of the whole layout.  Right here the main line tracks go from a double track to a single track main.  Every train that runs on the layout must go through this switch, actually twice as it circumnavigates the layout.

Everything was fine until I had a minor (?) derailment just before the switch and a derailed car was drawn across the switch.  Naturally, it completely derailed and caused a short.  So when I lifted the train off the track, here the cars had snagged the Gargraves points and bent them all to heck.  Tried straightening the points but it just wouldn't work.  The switch was toast.  That particular switch is a "controlled spring switch" so it has to move easily to allow the wheel flanges to pass through without having to turn the switch each time.

So I ordered a new, Ross #6 switch to replace the Gargraves and spent most of the weekend replacing it.  Had a lot of ballast to remove plus a loading platform for one of my stations so there was a lot of futzing around just to do the job.  So I get the job done (?), refasten the Gargraves track down to the cork roadbed and the Homosote underlayment and I figure the job is done.  Wrong:  the first train I run over the new switch bounces and shakes around, although it stays on the track.  Further examination shows that with my poor eyesight, plus trying to get the job done in time, I missed one of the six track pins on the track leading from the switch.  Nuts!  I wasn't going to lift that whole section up again just to fix it.  The old trusty Dremel came in handy and I took a HD cutting wheel and cut right through the track pin, lifted one of the rails while pushing down on the one on the switch and got it running smooth again.

Heck, I might even need that rail cut if I ever decide to wire up my Atlas signals for the area!

Paul Fischer

Mark Boyce posted

Mitch, do you have any cars for the rest of the reindeer??

No, but BOY do I have cars for the gi-raffes!  

fisch330 posted:
The old trusty Dremel came in handy and I took a HD cutting wheel and cut right through the track pin, lifted one of the rails while pushing down on the one on the switch and got it running smooth again.

Attaboy!

Mitch

Inspired by others creations, I cut arches on a 60 inch long foam retaining wall. It's 1.5 inches thick and 8 inches tall. I will make shallow groves for stone blocks and mortar lines. I will place something in the openings to hide the road bed supports. Maybe in one a wood wall with a office door and garage door. I want a small passenger station trackside, about 4 x 6 inches.

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C&O line posted:

I can't really do much on the underside because of head clearance, tall guys already have to duck it.  I think you are right it hides too much of the train need to hack on it some with the metabo.  

You forgot to mention the black boogers with the smell and taste

 Some small v notches or even deep Vs with a railing left along the top might be enough. Or lowering the wall. It just seemed tall.

I can hold my breath a loooong time.

  Theres been so many K-line GG-s mentioned recently, I ran mine fast pulling 14 mixed passenger cars behind it like it was nothing, just because I could.

well since I have granddaughters that live with me major construction can't happen during the week the littlest one goes to bed about 2 hrs after I get off of work so by the time I get started she is going to bed. so I spent the weekend doing said construction. to get to a point I can wire up more track and have things to do during the week.

 

opps not enough clearance had to fix that .

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now theres room no clearance issues anymore

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found a place for the bridge again.

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well the upper yard is tied back into the layout.

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Still chipping away!  My layout is getting greener by the week in spite of the cold and snow outside.  Still have areas that need to be planted.  Have added some trees and foliage but realize that I have just begun.  Finished installing street lights.  They were rated for 3 volts DC so I added a 240 ohm resistor to each since I’m using a 6 volt DC power supply.

I have been ignoring for too long, the completion of the mountain (note the pink and blue styrofoam at the far end of picture #8).  I need to get started on this project after the first of the year even though, I don’t like the mess created by carving the foam and it is too cold to do the work outside.  I guess I just need to “get over it”.

But for now, I am wishing you all a Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah and happy New Year.  

May your stockings be stuff with trains!

Dave

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I spent yesterday finishing that bank of 10 manual switch throws for the Minnesota Commercial yard.

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Red spaghetti.

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When it comes to mudding and taping, I get pretty good results. I'm just really slow. A pro would have this done in an hour. I've been dragging it on for a couple weeks. My shoulder hurts.

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I took the LC+ NW2 out for a spin and had it push the track cleaning car. I took it to tracks that no train has gone before. Big success! Though I did discover one trouble spot.

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It did not want to go through this 3 way. It kept shorting out.

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Best I can figure, these two rail segments are permanently tied to ground. The problem is when the rollers cross them there's a momentary dead short. What I need to do is find the connection and break it, then install micro switches connected to the throwing mechanism to route power. This sounds more difficult than it is.

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Alan, great work with scraps just laying around, it looks like a great match. I sure hope you have fun on your train ride later on. Its been years ago when I last road a train.

Elliot, Good job on the switches and great looking mud work on the walls. Your moving right along, I am so happy for you that with such a big layout you only found one problem. Also it sounds like you have it handled with the fact you say its an easy fix. I would be scratching my head for days!

Dave, your layout just looks wonderful, it really shows pride in what your doing! I hope to be there someday like the rest of you all!

I don't have photos of it, but yesterday I went to a small local hobby shop and found he had scenery stock from a now-defunct Canadian company. I bought a huge bag (which almost completely filled two tamped-down Woodland Scenics shaker containers) of ground cover which, to me, looked mostly like the dead stuff you find under any deciduous trees. I sprinkled some at the base of most of the non-pine trees on the layout (none for the background ones as I'm not a contortionist). I think it really makes a difference. All deciduous trees of course have this little pile of previous year’s leaves at the base unless they’re in someone’s raked yard. It’s the small things that make a layout look correct, I think. Many visitors probably wouldn't even notice, but I consider that big bag well worth the ten bucks I paid for it.

I talked with my folks late yesterday on the phone (they live at the opposite corner of the country from me) and both said that now I have all those trees in place, the layout is really looking like what they recall from their childhood (less the trains of course). I’ve decided I am going to put a small enclosed fenced 'farm' area, based on a neat photo I have of the ET&WNC in its final year. The gates around the area were all made of two posts on each side with slots, and beams would go horizontally across the opening. My parents tell me that having one or two (but no more than two) milk cows wouldn’t have been unusual back then, so I’ll make some scale cow pies and get a good ‘moo cow’ figure to paint to the correct breed.

Last edited by p51
Alan Rogers posted:

Thanks mike. I used wood which I soak in India ink to get it looking old and weathered, then airbrushed it with a light coat of paint I like to use acrylic paint from the craft store and mix my own colors. This turned out a little too mustardy in bright light, but seems okay in darker conditions. 

Hey Alan, I really like the color, but if you think its a little off in bright light, that's an easy fix! Keep it in a lower light corner LOL, but honestly I think it looks great~!

Thanks Mike.

Just because I only found one problem yesterday, doesn't mean there aren't many more.  My  wife created a "layout log" book much like the "loco log" we did a few months back. This allows me to break the layout down into sections, and make notes of repairs needed. I got the book out for the first time, and wrote down 5 items that I was aware of, including the 3 way. It is the only way to stay organized with a layout this large.

As for the 3 way, I think the best approach is to first check continuity with my meter, to make sure it is connected to ground. It would be very difficult to pull up the whole switch. My plan is to unspike the two pieces of rail, remove any electrical connection, and add new separate feeders. Then I'll place some of my micro switches next to the control linkages, and use them to route power. This may become a common practice around the layout

mike g. posted:
p51 posted:
mike g. posted:

Lee, you never stop surprising me with the little details you find to improve on. I cant wait to see the pictures!

Mike, you know me by now. As they used to say, the photos will be by, directly...

Hey Lee I found this, thought you might like it! Its very cool.

http://www.junipergallery.com/taxonomy/term/62

Cool!

This is the stuff I placed under the trees... it's a little tough to differentiate between this and the green, with the lighting like this.2016-12-19 18.48.23

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OK guys, I found the problem, and it turns out I created it by adding ground leads to those two rail segments. All I really had to do was clip those wires, and let them go dead. Unfortunately, I didn't figure that out until after I had pulled the rails.

First I unspiked one side of the rail, leaving the other row of spikes in place. Then I gently pried it up, then repeated the process on the other side.

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I added new leads to both rails...

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and put them back...

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respiking both...

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good as new.

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The new leads aren't connected to anything right now. I put them in on the off chance they might be needed later.

This 3 way leads up the hump. Here's a little video!

 

 

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Big_Boy_4005 posted:

OK guys, I found the problem, and it turns out I created it by adding ground leads to those two rail segments. All I really had to do was clip those wires, and let them go dead. Unfortunately, I didn't figure that out until after I had pulled the rails.

First I unspiked one side of the rail, leaving the other row of spikes in place. Then I gently pried it up, then repeated the process on the other side.

IMG_7158

I added new leads to both rails...

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and put them back...

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respiking both...

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good as new.

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The new leads aren't connected to anything right now. I put them in on the off chance they might be needed later.

This 3 way leads up the hump. Here's a little video!

 

 

Great fix on the switch and that permanent magnet at the top of the hump really works well.   Dave

Thanks Mitch and Mike.

Dave, so far I really like the way the Lionel cars work on the hump. Much smoother than MTH, but more testing is needed. Now I have to get power to those 5 switches to really have some fun. I think it's going to take two people to run it, one on the throttle and the other to throw the switches. I'm going to have 6 push buttons mounted to the fascia, one for each track. A diode matrix will be used to select routes, throwing as many as three switches at a time.

It just occurred to me that I never tested the center route on the 3 way. That's where the ground feed to those rails would be needed. If the engine stalls there, I'll have to put in the micro switches.

mike g. posted:

Looks nice Lee, Just like fall, now all you have to do is add some apple trees with apples on the ground!

Not so much fall time of year than previous falls, where the earlier leaves never got raked and they rotted in place. That's why many (but not all) the trees with have this at their bases. It's eternally late summer on the layout.

No apple trees in East Tennessee, either.

I've had to get rid of a bunch of stuff I'd bought for the layout that IU later realized wouldn't fit. For example, I had a casting of a road-kill armadillo. Too far north for their habitat, I later found out.

I'm trying very hard to put only the people/stuff/plants on the layout that could have been there in 1943. The only concession I made was putting cattails in some stagnant puddles and small bodies of water. Tennessee is a little north of the normal habitat for those but not by very much, so I did fudge that one thing.

p51 posted:
 
I've had to get rid of a bunch of stuff I'd bought for the layout that IU later realized wouldn't fit. For example, I had a casting of a road-kill armadillo. Too far north for their habitat, I later found out.

In 1943, maybe.  Nowadays, though...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/...nded_armadillo#Range

Mitch

(In fact, I have a cartoon armadillo, "Casey" Brunswick, as an engine driver for the Razorback Traction Co.)

Casey

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M. Mitchell Marmel posted:
p51 posted:
 
I've had to get rid of a bunch of stuff I'd bought for the layout that IU later realized wouldn't fit. For example, I had a casting of a road-kill armadillo. Too far north for their habitat, I later found out.

In 1943, maybe.  Nowadays, though...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/...nded_armadillo#Range

Mitch

 

Yep, armadillos moved their 'turf' further north long after the 1940s.

I have my folks and other people who lived up there during WW2 to go on, and other info I can find to confirm these things (including what must be a very rare 1944 government book about plant and animal habitats in the US, which is a dry yet fascinating book for my needs).

My Dad spent almost every waking moment of his youth up in those hills hunting, trapping and otherwise being as good a hillbilly as he could be. Though my parents are both 80 now, they have very good memories on certain stuff. For example, though there were indeed deer and black bear indigenous to the area, they'd been hunted to non-existence from the WW1 era to the depression. Dad never saw even a bear track in all the years he trekked over those hills. Neither ever saw a deer until long after the war, when people stopped hunting them to keep from starving (hunting for sport was an alien concept to the folks there at that time).

jim pastorius posted:

There are cat tails in Pa.

Maybe it's the altitude, but there aren't any in the portion of the Blue Ridge area that I model.

Pat Kn posted:

Elliot, I love the way the hump yard is working. You might need something faster than the tortoise switch motors to switch the switches in time to route the cars properly. 

Thanks Pat. As much as I hate twin coil switch machines, those five switches have DZ1000's on them, and just need to be wired. I have to build a diode matrix and a capacitor discharge power supply to run them.

Yesterday Mr. Brown dropped off a package for me but I did not have to get to it. Tuesday morning was spent having my Rail King PS-1 Alleghany looked at and only finding out it was a goner so I am having it up graded to proto two. Tuesday night was the Tuesday night crew get together so the day was booked with no work on the layout. So today I actually took my buys out of the boxes and placed them on a track to take pics. I did this especially for Bryan to show him I do take things out of the boxes. So a bunch of sound cars, wonder bread hopper, CN caboose, Lots GT hopper, PGE TTOS box car. It is small but I like Canadian roads and two girder bridges for each side of the die cast bridge. While doing this I finalized a track plan for some track in that area. So if the wife has a Cavs game on TV I'll be down there laying it out. If not then I will get to it tomorrow. Some pics....................Paul

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Yesterday I finished a long awaiting project of eliminating the DZ1002 push buttons on my Ross Switches, all using DZ1000 switch machines.  I installed SPDT-mom toggle switches and 3mm LED's in the respective side of the switch on the control panel.  For the two crossovers, I used DPDT-mom toggles where both sides of the crossover activate at the same time.  This really gives better indication of what the switches are set at.  See attached photo.

bruce

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bruce benzie posted:

Yesterday I finished a long awaiting project of eliminating the DZ1002 push buttons on my Ross Switches, all using DZ1000 switch machines.  I installed SPDT-mom toggle switches and 3mm LED's in the respective side of the switch on the control panel.  For the two crossovers, I used DPDT-mom toggles where both sides of the crossover activate at the same time.  This really gives better indication of what the switches are set at.  See attached photo.

bruce

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Quite the unique way of constructing a control panel, Bruce.  It can be a real chore to design in simplicity of operation.  The more instantaneous the identification, the less likely this will happen......

BTW, this wasn't a deliberate posing.  To my amazement, and those of the diners, a reverse maneuver got this 15" car skewed sideways, without a derailment or uncoupling. 

Bruce

It's a good thing I got my Christmas shopping finished earlier than usual. Today I worked on the underside of a stretch of bench work where the bridge will be.  It will not be prefect but so much of it will never be a focus. 

After reviewing work by others, I decided my mortar joints were not as wide, deep and prominent so I worked on those, spread some spackle on the arch underside and improved a tunnel portal. 

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mike g. posted:

 But that's what makes you such a good Husband and Dad!

Yeah another hole I dug myself into, Just kidding. The issue was when I redid the landscaping, a lot of the birch trees were set in and had to be pulled out and removed to make room for the tree. Also had to get a new tree as old tree had a wide base and sat low , which would have necessitated moving the road and buildings. So the old tree is packed up and will go to goodwill tomorrow with clothes kids have grown out of or no longer wear.. The real good news is my truck ( M1028A1 CUCV ) will finally come out of the shop next week so most of the restoration will be complete. Drive train has been completely rebuilt along with some of the wiring. For the time being I will leave it desert tan, but in the spring I plan on sending it of to be repainted in 80s NATO tri Color camouflage scheme and unit markings. CARC paint is not cheap but excellent rust inhibitor. 

suzukovich posted:
mike g. posted:

 But that's what makes you such a good Husband and Dad!

Yeah another hole I dug myself into, Just kidding. The issue was when I redid the landscaping, a lot of the birch trees were set in and had to be pulled out and removed to make room for the tree. Also had to get a new tree as old tree had a wide base and sat low , which would have necessitated moving the road and buildings. So the old tree is packed up and will go to goodwill tomorrow with clothes kids have grown out of or no longer wear.. The real good news is my truck ( M1028A1 CUCV ) will finally come out of the shop next week so most of the restoration will be complete. Drive train has been completely rebuilt along with some of the wiring. For the time being I will leave it desert tan, but in the spring I plan on sending it of to be repainted in 80s NATO tri Color camouflage scheme and unit markings. CARC paint is not cheap but excellent rust inhibitor. 

Well I am glad the little lady let you get a new tree! LOL It's nice you didn't have to move the road and building, that would have been a pain in the rear!

I am glad your getting your truck back next week. It will be like a late Christmas gift. You know when I was in the Marines we would smear grease on all the markers and lights, then go to town with paint brushes! The camo turned out looking just fine!

pennsynut posted:

It's a good thing I got my Christmas shopping finished earlier than usual. Today I worked on the underside of a stretch of bench work where the bridge will be.  It will not be prefect but so much of it will never be a focus. 

After reviewing work by others, I decided my mortar joints were not as wide, deep and prominent so I worked on those, spread some spackle on the arch underside and improved a tunnel portal. 

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Love the arches and stone portals, but you are a pennsynut so where is the Keystone?

Dave

 

 

pennsynut posted:

It's a good thing I got my Christmas shopping finished earlier than usual. Today I worked on the underside of a stretch of bench work where the bridge will be.  It will not be prefect but so much of it will never be a focus. 

After reviewing work by others, I decided my mortar joints were not as wide, deep and prominent so I worked on those, spread some spackle on the arch underside and improved a tunnel portal. 

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Your joints are pretty detailed. What's your technique?

Ive just done pencil/pen lines, with only minor indentations. Yours are pretty deep!

darlander:  Funny you pointed that out.  I plan to add a layer perimeter around the edge of the openings that will have a keystone.

mo985: I used a ball point pen at first, but as you know that makes a rather thin cut and a shallow or thin mortar width. I experimented with a philips screw driver, a nail, a dremel grout tool (hand held) and finaly a hack saw blade. The hack saw blade was a little better at removing some of the foam between the blocks.

You might consider experimenting with various tools on sc rap foam to find one that works for you. This is my first experiment with this type of project so it has been tedious for me. I will appreciate any advice you have.

pennsynut posted:

darlander:  Funny you pointed that out.  I plan to add a layer perimeter around the edge of the openings that will have a keystone.

mo985: I used a ball point pen at first, but as you know that makes a rather thin cut and a shallow or thin mortar width. I experimented with a philips screw driver, a nail, a dremel grout tool (hand held) and finaly a hack saw blade. The hack saw blade was a little better at removing some of the foam between the blocks.

You might consider experimenting with various tools on sc rap foam to find one that works for you. This is my first experiment with this type of project so it has been tedious for me. I will appreciate any advice you have.    

darlander here:  I used a very dull pencil.  Try cutting in the pattern with a sharp knife and then use the the pencil to soften and fold in the edge.   This produces less puckering of the styrofoam plus the tapered shape of the pencil point will help widen the joint.   I also distress the surface with the eraser end of the pencil before I cut in the block pattern.   I like your plan of adding edging around the opening with the keystone!     Dave

Mark Boyce posted:

Great camera!  Great subject matter!  A winning combination!

Thanks, I was really surprised at the depth of field for just a cell phone (it's an LG G5, I think, just got it last night as my galaxy 6 was dying and I could hardly get it to turn the screen on anymore). It's hardly "magazine article" quality but it works great for the internet.

I'm going to have to re-shoot those with my good SLR with long exposures, as this weekend, I'll be getting my magazine article done on my layout.

mike g. posted:

Great pictures Lee, Of course what would you except when you have a great layout your shooting!

PS. Is it snowing down there?

Thanks, Mike!

Nope, no snow down here in the South Sound. We might get some on Monday, though. That's the day we'll be un-decking the halls of the Christmas decorations, and I'm going to try to squeeze in some writing/photography time for my article.

I hope you and everyone else here has a great holiday weekend!

p51 posted:
mike g. posted:

Great pictures Lee, Of course what would you except when you have a great layout your shooting!

PS. Is it snowing down there?

Thanks, Mike!

Nope, no snow down here in the South Sound. We might get some on Monday, though. That's the day we'll be un-decking the halls of the Christmas decorations, and I'm going to try to squeeze in some writing/photography time for my article.

I hope you and everyone else here has a great holiday weekend!

Cool, good luck on your article, hope it goes well. 2" of snow here in Hoodsport/Lake Cushman area. I wish you and your family a very Merry Christmas!

p51 posted:

Got a new cell yesterday and it takes great photos.1222162356b_resized1222162354b_resized

Nice station and layout. Is the depot scratch built? I am considering a cornerstone model, but maybe a different and unique rural PRR steam era that I would have to scratch build. But it might cost me as much as Woodland all said and done. Great track work, ballasting and platform detail BTW.

This afternoon I got down the rest of the cork. I have a sharper curve going into the Scrap Yard. Where the cork ends going into there I am going to taper the end down. Decided to not put cork under that area. After dinner the glue should be dry and I can paint the cork. Some pics of the progress so far.....................Paul

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 I spent the afternoon working on the outdoor suspended layout after a long span of inactivity. I moved all the patio furniture out of the way, and cleaned both loops of track. I then ran some engines to find any trouble spots, and went back over those. I left the engines run for several minutes to make sure everything is good to go for a video tomorrow.                                                                                    I pulled all my coal hoppers out, and I will be running 23 mixed road and bay sizes complete with loads. I will also be running a small MOW track repair train on the inner loop with my Weaver wood side gondolas filled with various loads.      I brought home a double fixture quartz lamp to illuminate the dark corners. I need one more, which is at my son's garage. If I don't add light, I can only video from a few locations. I'd like to get at least one full lap for each train. I will set the camera on a tripod in the center of the patio so I can do a 360 degree panorama. If all goes well, I'll post a video somewhere on the forum.

Don

pennsynut posted:1222162354b_resized

Nice station and layout. Is the depot scratch built? I am considering a cornerstone model, but maybe a different and unique rural PRR steam era that I would have to scratch build. But it might cost me as much as Woodland all said and done. Great track work, ballasting and platform detail BTW.

Thanks!

Yes, it is scratch built. It has wood and heavy cardstock walls, plastic doors and windows (with individual clear plastic window panes). The roof is wood but covered in plastruct roofing (which I might later change to actual hand-laid shingles eventually). I also made a readable (with a powerful magnifying glass, anyway) train bulletin chalk board, as well. It's right behind the guy reading the newspaper on the far end. The roof comes off the structure itself can lift off from the foundation, which is one piece with the walkways. Eventually, I'll put a full office interior inside the cupola. I have all the scale furniture and paneling, I just need to get other things done before that.

All but 3 structures on my layout are scratchbuilt (two Grandt Line flag stops, and a heavily-altered Woodland Scenics Ehtyl's gas station model).

About half the figures are from Artistta, with the sailor's sea bag hand-lettered as a photographer's mate heading back to the USS Indianapolis and a likely horrible fate at the end of the war. I need to hand-render the correct rank/rating patch to his uniform eventually. Note the benches are all occupied by women, workers at the twin rayon mills in Elizabethton, TN*, waiting for their commuter train to arrive. All the male figures on the layout are either old or very young, and the able-bodied ones either are working for the RR or are in uniform. Just like in the real-life 1943 rural deep South.

The trash can even has scale trash inside, and a lid to one side to show it.

There are correct war bond posters on each side of the depot, and the covered load on the baggage cart is marked, "L. Riley, Johnson City" in honor of the late Lee Riley, the man at Bachmann that got their On30 line into the hands of folks like us and pushed for making fine items like the ET&WNC-patterned Baldwin 4-6-0s that got me back into the hobby.

*All place names on the layout or mentioned off the layout are based on real places.

Last edited by p51

After dinner with the glue dry I painted the cork. If it is dry later I'll start applying ballast to the painted areas. The curve that is going into the scrap yard area and the short piece in the back will transition to black. This time around I am going to ballast sidings in dark cinder and applying good color ballast to the mainline. Pics..........Paul

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This morning with the paint dry I ballasted the area of track. Late this afternoon with the ballast dry I mixed up some plaster and laid it down between all the tracks in that area. Think that is it for the night I made the plaster a little too soupy so it is going to take longer to dry. Tomorrow maybe I can get the track and switches down in that area. A few pics...................Paul

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paul 2 posted:

Santa came to the house early. These were not to arrive till Tuesday. So I took them down to see if the plaster was dry but guess not till tomorrow. Got these from Mr. Muffin. Pic. Merry Christmas everyone.......Paul

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Do you like these? I've seen photos in magazines but wondered how good they look in person...

  I waited on smoke fluid, but Mr Zip didn't deliver it. I called a pal who happened to have plenty, and time to deliver it too, and so I borrowed some. It was a stroke of luck. I thought I was going to be the guy at the hobby shop window wishing for 5 minutes of the day back  ...

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   Pushing my luck, I fiddled with the 655 resealing the gap between the smoke units cup and chamber, then looked at a K4s e unit, re-bent the fwd finger as needed, and obviously when I had turned my back for coffee, an elf ran off with one of the valve guide's slide plate's screws   I can hear it laughing at me   

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Last edited by Adriatic

P51, in my opinion they are much better in person. Woodland scenic did a great job on these, I think they raised the bar a bit on detail, still my opinion. Also what made the purchase better was Mr. Muffin ran a special when I ordered them. Buy two get the third free. Even without the special I would have bought them. If Woodland scenic makes more of these small buildings I will buy them...................Paul

I had fun yesterday  continuing to work on a #339 Standard gauge Lionel passenger car I acquired in my big box purchase a couple of months ago. Has a decent paint job on it but th trucks needed attention. Cleaned it all up, repainted the trucks but one was missing an axle and two wheels. What to do ??  I had some bad diecast wheels from the cars on my M1000 and noticed they were the same diameter as the tin wheels on the 500 series trucks.  Made an axle out of an 8 penny(I think)  finish nail and a piece of shrink tube over the nail for spacing and had my complete truck. I was curious to see if it roll ed OK but the car lacks couplers yet. What to do??   Good old twist tie  fastened to the coupler in front solved that problem. Ran it around the layout several times with no problems but more permanent repairs are  needed.  Still have the #341 Observation car to do but it is in a wee but rougher shape but will get fixed. Out of 15 cars in the box I bought that will leave only an Ives passenger car not repaired and I think it is not worth fixing.  Never know though.

As usual some nice work being done. Merry Christmas everyone.

Paul the Woodland scenic buildings look nice.

Eliot as usual you can make my head spin with some of the issue you run into and the solutions. Kind of nice the issue with the switch turned out to be a simple fix. Watch the video of your hump yard in action. pretty cool. Only question that the cars moved pretty quick  and slammed into the other cars. Are you going to put something in to slow them down.

Yesterday, while getting thing ready for this morning I finally got around to repairing the lights on the S Scale PE passenger cars. Had to loosen up and create more slack and the stipe and solder to all the 2R pickup wipers on the trucks.  Then replaced the rear spring in the rear truck on the engine with one of the springs from one of the 3R couplers which sit taller and have more resistance then the stock one. This now  allows for better contact with the rails, No longer derails. and also allows the engine to be run without traction tires. Only issue left is no sound from the engine. Any Ideas.

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I was able to get a second coat of color on the plaster but for some reason I am not happy with the color. I may had used to wrong earth tone color because the last I did on the attic layout was more of a brown color. But this is it for the day. Time to get ready to go out and spend time with family on Christmas. Pics...first coat....second coat....Paul

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suzukovich posted:

Eliot as usual you can make my head spin with some of the issue you run into and the solutions. Kind of nice the issue with the switch turned out to be a simple fix. Watch the video of your hump yard in action. pretty cool. Only question that the cars moved pretty quick  and slammed into the other cars. Are you going to put something in to slow them down.

Thanks Suzukovich, I try to bring my "A game" when it comes to the layout.

Yes, you're right, the cars are going a little too fast. I'm thinking of something as simple as broom bristles to rub on the axles or wheels. Usually what happens on things like this is, as more time passes, new ideas pop into my head. I thought of a couple new ones as I was typing this. The wheel is still spinning, we'll see where the ball lands.

I've been working on the layout almost every day this month, and have gotten a lot done. Here's a small job I took care of a couple days ago. I had a broken switch point that needed to be re-soldered.

The pivot pin was still in the throw bar, but had dropped down in the hole and couldn't be grabbed. If the pin is lost, I usually have to replace the whole throw bar and do new pins. A little quick thinking, and I came up with this magnet. It pulled the pin up, then I used some tie wraps to hold it up while I soldered the point back on.

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The finished repair. Should have only taken me 10 minutes, but "stuff" happens.

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There will be lots more to say over on My Dream/Nightmare Layout next week. I'll be doing my usual monthly update, plus a review of year four.

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Big_Boy_4005 posted:
suzukovich posted:

Eliot as usual you can make my head spin with some of the issue you run into and the solutions. Kind of nice the issue with the switch turned out to be a simple fix. Watch the video of your hump yard in action. pretty cool. Only question that the cars moved pretty quick  and slammed into the other cars. Are you going to put something in to slow them down.

Thanks Suzukovich, I try to bring my "A game" when it comes to the layout.

Yes, you're right, the cars are going a little too fast. I'm thinking of something as simple as broom bristles to rub on the axles or wheels. Usually what happens on things like this is, as more time passes, new ideas pop into my head. I thought of a couple new ones as I was typing this. The wheel is still spinning, we'll see where the ball lands.

I've been working on the layout almost every day this month, and have gotten a lot done. Here's a small job I took care of a couple days ago. I had a broken switch point that needed to be re-soldered.

The pivot pin was still in the throw bar, but had dropped down in the hole and couldn't be grabbed. If the pin is lost, I usually have to replace the whole throw bar and do new pins. A little quick thinking, and I came up with this magnet. It pulled the pin up, then I used some tie wraps to hold it up while I soldered the point back on.

IMG_7169

The finished repair. Should have only taken me 10 minutes, but "stuff" happens.

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There will be lots more to say over on My Dream/Nightmare Layout next week. I'll be doing my usual monthly update, plus a review of year four.

Well done Elloit, another great fix.   Problem solving can be a fun challenge part of the hobby, especially when it is successful.  Looking forward to seen all the progress in April.   Dave

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